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It was to Rome that Fendi looked, too, crafting gold filigree arabesques that decorated gilded cuffs, earpieces, sunglasses, andchristian louboutin shoes louboutin shoes like wings. But for all the toga-draped swimsuits, the collection had more in common with the cheap gags of Up Pompeii than the steady hand of the mighty Roman empire. Talking of empires, has the Gucci Group invested too much money in its new stable of young designers (McQueen, McCartney, and Ghesquiere) and not enough time on their signature brand? With
company figures reportedly down by 50 per cent and the Yves Saint Laurent label (Gucci's creative director Tom Ford's other charge) stealing the limelight from Gucci, it will be a crucial season. The strategy? Sell them sex. Embroidered kimonos were worn with a
slinky jersey tops that hung off one shoulder, and the short, clingy dresses printed with Japanese cherry blossom will improve Gucci's ailing figures, but there were few new ideas. If only Ford had done to Sixties Courreges or Rabanne what he has done with Seventies Halston and Saint Laurent.
But Ford's references to orientalism were followed by a whole revival of chinoiserie. At Krizia Top there were evening dresses embellished with beaded dragons; at Missoni there were mini kimonos and Chinese printed chiffon bomber jackets; at Blumarine, Anna Molinari did her take on Madame Butterfly. Alessandro dell'Acqua, forever the sensualist, softened his tailoring, which had a faint whiff of Chairman Mao, with his sexy dresses with Chinese knot fastenings, and with lingerie shapes in a palette of rose, aquamarine and vanilla.
The old obsession with underwear as outerwear (forever at Dolce & Gabbana, and there at Gucci) has given a new edge to the played-out chinoiserie theme, one that Roberto Cavalli claimed as his own in his
pannier shoulders, tulle knickerbockers and ruffled mini crinis, it looked as if Little Bo Peep had lost her sheep and Berardi had lost his way. These are beautifully made clothes with enormous attention to detail, but they bear no relevance to Milan or to the modern woman's wardrobe. Berardi needs to relocate soon back to London or to Paris, where his romantic creativity will be appreciated, or face falling off the fashion landscape forever.
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